Interior Door Installation: What Homeowners Need to Know

Not all interior doors are created equal. Here are your main options:

• Hollow-core: Lightweight, affordable, fine for closets and low-traffic areas
• Solid-core: Heavier, better sound dampening, more substantial feel
• Solid wood: Premium option, beautiful, can be refinished multiple times
• Barn doors: Trendy, space-saving, but offer no sound barrier
• French doors: Elegant for office or dining room separation
• Pocket doors: Space-saving but require wall modification
• My recommendation: Solid-core for bedrooms/bathrooms, hollow-core for closets

Size matters more than you think. Here's the reality of door sizing:

• Standard interior door: 80 inches tall, 30-36 inches wide
• Older homes often have non-standard sizes
• Standard pre-hung doors are most affordable and easiest to install
• Custom sizes cost 2-3x more and take weeks to manufacture
• Measuring wrong is expensive - hire a pro if unsure
• Door slabs vs pre-hung: Pre-hung includes frame and is much easier
• Pro tip: Measure at three heights - openings aren't always square

Here's what actually happens during professional door installation:

• 1. Remove old door and frame (if replacing)
• 2. Check rough opening for square and level
• 3. Shim frame perfectly level and plumb
• 4. Secure frame properly to wall studs
• 5. Adjust hinges for perfect swing
• 6. Install and adjust latch/lockset
• 7. Install trim/casing to cover gaps
• 8. Paint or stain as needed
• Timeline: 2-3 hours per door for experienced installer
• DIY pitfall: Rushing the shimming process causes problems

Door hardware affects both function and appearance:

• Hinges: Standard 3.5" hinges for most doors, heavy doors need 4"
• Knobs vs levers: Levers easier for everyone, better accessibility
• Privacy locks: Bathrooms and bedrooms need privacy function
• Passage locks: Living areas and closets - no lock needed
• Finish matching: All hardware in sight should match
• Quality matters: Cheap hardware fails fast, upgrade if budget allows
• ADA compliance: Required for accessibility in certain situations

Here are the issues I see most often and how to prevent them:

• Door won't close: Usually improper installation or settling foundation
• Door swings open/closed: Not properly leveled during installation
• Squeaky hinges: Use proper lubricant, not WD-40
• Latch won't catch: Strike plate misaligned with latch
• Gaps around door: Improper shimming or worn weatherstrip
• Sticking door: Humidity expansion or paint buildup
• Loose hinges: Screws stripped - use longer screws or fill holes
• Prevention: Professional installation gets it right the first time

Understanding what drives door installation costs:

• Hollow-core pre-hung: $75-150
• Solid-core pre-hung: $150-300
• Solid wood pre-hung: $300-800+
• Hardware: $15-200 depending on quality and style
• Installation labor: $100-200 per door typically
• Additional costs: Trim/casing, painting, frame modifications
• Custom work: Non-standard sizes or pocket doors cost more
• DIY reality: Takes 2-3x longer first time, mistakes are expensive

Not every door problem requires replacement:

• Replace when: Damage beyond repair, wrong size, style change, major warping
• Repair when: Minor sticking, loose hinges, scratches, outdated hardware
• Refinish when: Solid wood door with surface damage
• Rehang when: Door sags or binds due to improper installation
• Cost-effective approach: Replace if repair costs exceed 50% of new door
• Aesthetic consideration: Unmatched doors look cheap - replace them all
• My advice: Start with least expensive fix, escalate if needed